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Discovering Shrubs

On the Road Again

I have recipes, new and old, piling up around here. I’ve been on the road a lot these past few months but I’ve spent time in the kitchen too as I work some new discoveries into my seasonal repertoire. Looking back there are at least a few that are worthy of sharing and still pertinent to the holiday season that is fast approaching.

Take these shrubs for example. I first discovered shrubs on the drink menu at Pizzeria Toro in Durham, NC. It was a warm September evening as my husband and I sat across from each other at a long communal table in front of the pizza oven. The fire was bright and the activity in the kitchen was brisk as pizza crusts were smothered with toppings then paddle loaded into the oven chamber, rearranged and, a few minutes later, retrieved all melty and golden.

We looked over the drink menu, more interested in ordering something thirst quenching than buzz inducing. We saw “shrubs & soda” followed by a list of fruits and wondered. Asking, we learned that shrubs are an old-fashioned concentrated syrup generally made from fruit, vinegar and sugar. While shrubs make great cocktail mixers, added to club soda alone they make a drink that is both sweet and tangy as well as refreshing, something like a cross between lemonade and soda. My husband ordered the watermelon shrub and I ordered the peach.

Where Have I Been?

Perhaps I am a bit late to the game. Though I had never heard of shrubs before, once I was initiated I began to see them everywhere. The next day we stopped by Parker and Otis to pick up some local handcrafted nut butters I had read great things about. Only a few shelves away I quickly noticed a book titled Shrubs: An Old-Fashioned Drink for Modern Times. I flipped through it briefly before adding it to my basket along with a bottle of Grapefruit Shrub elixir from Shrub & Co.

The Grapefruit Shrub elixir was delicious. It was the perfect drink mixer for late summer afternoons on the front porch. I have never much liked the syrupy sweetness of ordinary soda drinks. I prefer lemonade but too often it errs on the sweet side as well. This grapefruit shrub, mixed with club soda, is pleasingly tart without tasting puckery. There is just enough sweetness to balance the tart and a hint of grapefruit bitter to offer an exotic twist. Overall it maintains a light and healthy vibe enhanced by Shrub & Co.’s promises of local organic sourcing and responsible business practices.

By the Book

As it turns out, the shrub recipe book is fabulous too. Here Michael Dietsch offers some history on the evolution of shrubs, along with a few historic recipes from the likes of Benjamin Franklin and Martha Washington. After grounding our understanding he describes technique and offers recipes for a wide variety of fruit flavor combinations, along with a few interesting exceptions. The last chapters provides recipes for cocktail and other shrub creations. All the while this book encourages experimentation and creative license.

I have tried several of the recipes from my new book. I especially liked the Pear-Ginger Shrub. Its flavors are well balanced and rooted in autumn. It smelled so delicious while I was making it that it was hard to wait the week it steeped in the refrigerator before trying it. It was one of five shrub recipes I tried from the book and it is definitely my favorite.

This shrub would make a nice beverage for holiday gatherings. It incorporates the flavors of the season in an interesting mix of sweet, spicy and tangy without getting too complicated. The ginger adds a nice bite and the flavor of ripe pear adds a little soft sophistication. Try it with club soda over ice or experiment with a cocktail recipe of your own.

Pear-Ginger Shrub

From Shrubs: An Old-Fashioned Drink for Modern Times by Michael Dietsch

6 ripe pears, cored and diced
2/3 cup fresh ginger, grated
1 cup sugar
1 cup apple cider vinegar

In a medium bowl, combine the diced pears, grated ginger and sugar. Crush the pears with a fork or potato masher. Stir to combine. Cover the bowl and place it in the refrigerator to macerate for about 24 hours.

When the fruit has macerated strain the liquid into a small bowl using a fine mesh strainer. Add the vinegar, whisking well to incorporate any undissolved sugar.

Pour the syrup vinegar mixture into a clean mason jar. Cover with a lid and shake well. Store in the refrigerator. Allow the mixture to rest for one week before using.

To Serve: Mix 1 part shrub syrup to 4 parts sparkling water or club soda. Pour over ice in tall glasses.



grace said...

never thought shrubs were anything more than lawn decorations--these are much more exciting!

Jeff said...

Thank you for sharing this delightful concoction! YUM!